From Jackie O to Mod: Your Complete Guide to 1960s Vintage Fashion
The 1960s is one of the most exciting and transformative decades in fashion history. Opening in the refined elegance of Jackie Kennedy's America, it moved through the Mod revolution of mid-decade London and closed with the bolder, more experimental styles of the late 1960s. Few decades saw such dramatic change in women's clothing - from fitted Jackie O suits and pillbox hats to Mary Quant's miniskirts and Twiggy's graphic shift dresses. This guide covers the full sweep of the decade: the silhouettes, the key moments, the icons, and how to bring 1960s style into a modern wardrobe.
Elegance in Transition: The Early Sixties
When we think of the early 1960s, we think of the sophisticated style of Jackie O, Pan Am when Doris Day was still the style icon of choice for many women. This may well be the transition period from the exceptionally feminine 1950s fashions to the free styles of the swingin 60s - but it epitomises the elegance of our golden era of fashion and gives it the finale it deserves.
A bit of Historical Info
The early 60s was certainly a transition period where fashion is concerned as well as culturally. There is no doubt that fashion took a real turn after this period reflecting changes in values and morals - resulting in a much more casual approach to clothing. In the early 60s however, ladies were still striving to epitomise the well dressed woman they had always aspired to. But these styles were the forerunners of a real change of style. You can see the start of this in some of the style lines and silhouettes but this is also when colours started to turn hot and prints - exotic!
The Early 1960s Silhouette
The hourglass of the 1950s was still there but started to soften. There were still two silhouettes.
Firstly, the very full skirt and defined waist. The early 60s saw the full skirt was shorter that the 50s versions, reaching just below the knee rather than mid calf. The waist tended to be enhanced by ruching, ribbon trims or cummerbunds.
The second silhouette is a slim fitted one and was a boxy jacket paired with a slim pencil skirt or sheath dress. Topped off by a pillbox hat!
Hair was big and bouffant or beehive. Asymmetrical hair styles were common as were the use of wigs ;-)
One other thing - the bust shape started to become more rounded than the conical or pointed shape of the 50s.
The Start of Mod
By the mid 60s, the hemline started its rise and saw many styles reach the knee or slightly above. Styles skimmed the body and necklines were high in the form of turtle neck, high scoop, bateau or high cowl. Backs were low especially in eveningwear. We see the princess line feature on many styles from the mid 60s and obvious use of fabulous brocades, satins and chiffons.
Eveningwear
There was an element of the 'grecian' in early 60s eveningwear that makes it so alluring. Floor length gowns with draped panels of chiffon that float behind the wearer. One shoulder gowns, sating gowns topped with lace, billowing chiffon sleeves. Or think of Audrey's iconic yet simple black dress in Breakfast at Tiffany's.
These were simply gorgeous styles that are largely overlooked or misrepresented.
The Mid-1960s Mod Revolution: Mary Quant, Twiggy & the Miniskirt
By the mid-1960s, London had replaced Paris as the world's fashion capital. Carnaby Street and the King's Road became the epicentres of a style revolution driven by young designers, particularly Mary Quant, who is widely credited with popularising the miniskirt in Britain. Hemlines that had sat at the knee in 1963 rose rapidly, reaching mid-thigh by 1966.
The Mod Look
The Mod silhouette was a complete departure from the curves of the 1950s. Styles became geometric, graphic and body-conscious in an angular rather than a rounded way. Shift dresses and A-line skirts with bold colour blocking or op-art prints were everywhere. Necklines were often high - a roll neck, square neck or simple jewel neckline - while sleeves were either long and narrow or absent altogether.
Twiggy and the New Ideal
Model Twiggy became the face of the Mod era and represented a radical shift from the hourglass ideal of the previous decade. The new look was lean, youthful and androgynous, with cropped hair, enormous lash-lined eyes and a flat, boyish silhouette. Dresses were often worn with flat or low-heeled shoes and bold geometric jewellery.
Fabrics and Prints
The Mod era embraced new synthetic fabrics - PVC, jersey and bonded wool - alongside bold printed cottons and wools. Op-art patterns in black and white geometric designs, colour blocking in primary colours, and large abstract prints are all instantly recognisable from this period. Designers including Courreges, Pucci and Yves Saint Laurent all contributed landmark pieces to this decade.
Jackie O Chic
The original fashionable First Lady managed to maintain her impeccable style throughout her time in the White House.
Jackie's style was prim skirt suits, pillbox hats and super-sized dark glasses and made her the style inspiration for women across America.
Breakfast at Tiffany's
This iconic image from 1961 epitomises the early 60s eveningwear look and heralded the birth of the LBD!
Simple, elegant, heavily accessorised - worn with high bouffant/beehive hair. Note the large 5 string pearls and cute tiara that nestles in the beehive.
Cocktail Heaven
As seen on the likes of Joan Holloway in Madmen, the cocktail dress in the early 60s was an absolute must have. Rich colourful fabrics were often satin and brocades or metallics which softly cling to the body whilst at the same time creating shape. Many styles included the ruched waistband - which emphasised the waist. Deep pleats at the top of the skirt also created shape.
Nailing the Jackie O Look: Three Key Style Tips
Tip 1: The Hair
The early 60s look was fairly simple but the hair was big and beehive. There are simply loads of videos on YouTube giving you excellent walk throughs and tutorials on how to create great 60s hair.
Tip 2: Accessories
Outfits were heavily accessorised and often coordinated carefully with the dress/suit. You can still get 1960s bags, gloves and other accessories in fabulous condition. Also invest in some large statement necklaces, 3 or 5 string beads ir pearls.
Tip 3 - Winged eyeliner
Still iconic - stronger and finished with a huge pair of false eyelashes.
Your 1960s Wardrobe Essentials
Whether you are drawn to the early 60s elegance of Jackie O or the swinging Mod London of mid-decade, here are the key pieces to build a 1960s wardrobe:-
- A-line or shift dress in a bold print or colour block
- Fitted skirt suit with a boxy jacket - the Jackie O staple
- Slim sheath dress in a structured fabric
- Pencil skirt or cigarette trousers
- Turtle neck or high-neck top
- A tailored coat or swing coat
Must-have accessories:-
- Pillbox hat
- Oversized dark glasses
- Block-heeled or kitten heel shoes
- Long gloves for eveningwear
- Large statement jewellery - 5-string beads or big earrings
- A structured handbag
Style icons of the 1960s:-
- Jackie Kennedy
- Audrey Hepburn
- Twiggy
- Brigitte Bardot
- Jean Shrimpton
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