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1920s Fashion History & Style Guide

1920s Fashion History & Style Guide

Collage of vintage fashion illustrations and photographs from the 1920s.Collage of vintage fashion illustrations and photographs from the 1920s.

The Roaring Twenties: Fashion's Great Liberation & How to wear it now

1920s fashion was the result of post-war change, and it brought the biggest shift in women's clothing of any decade. Women abandoned the corset for a straight, low-waisted silhouette, hemlines rose from the ankle to the knee, and the cloche hat, bobbed hair and long beads became the look of the Jazz Age. Browse our 1920s dresses and 1920s accessories.

It was a complete contrast to the matronly lines of the Edwardian Gibson girl, and it heralded the start of the modern era as we know it, when clothing became a tool of self-expression for more than just the wealthy. Cultural movements flourished in all of the main cities in the west at the same time, from the decadent 'bright young things' of London society to the New Orleans jazz scene.

Post-War Liberation & the Jazz Age

There is no two ways about it - the early part of the 20th Century was pretty grim for most - The First World War & the horrendous outbreak of Spanish Influenza were hugely significant events that we still feel the impact of today. Let's not also forget that some women were given the vote in 1919.

There was, however, a brief period of prosperity between WW1 and the crash of 1929 - this is what we now call the 'roaring 20s'.

Socio-economic changes can be tracked through changes in fashion and style. With the roaring 20s - the wind of change was in the air.... social structures were challenged, industry was changing and consequently this was reflected in clothing & fashion. Let's also mention the arrival of the silent movie star and the music from New Orleans - i.e. the jazz age.

In the 1920s, Women had more freedom than their mothers did since they had tasted the freedoms of a world beyond homemaking that the war had offered and this was reflected in their simpler and more comfortable clothing. No curves, higher hemlines, a flat silhouette and an emphasis on youth. But it was more than cloche hats and drop waists - it was an explosion of change and experimentation.

What Did Women Wear in the 1920s? The Silhouette & The Boyish Look

So what did women wear in the 1920s? At the start of the decade the fashionable silhouette was no shape at all, in stark contrast to the extreme lines of the Edwardian matronly 'S shape'. A popular misconception is that the 1920s shape was about being thin, but it was about being healthy and athletic, with a focus on the 'slender mode of youth': how else would you dance and play sports? The look was androgynous, further emphasised by short bobbed hair, and the whole fashion revolution was a reaction to the demands of previous fashions and a seeking of equality between the genders.

The waistline in the 20s started loose but where it was expected to be and over the course of the next few years moved downwards to a firm position on the lower hip. By 1925 the look was totally flat, rectangular and hems were to mid calf - the boyish look had arrived. 

However, to relieve the monotony of rectangles and simple lines - designers saw these as the perfect blank canvas for adornments, appliques, embroidery, tucks and shirrings. Abstract designs, influenced heavily by the art deco movement, were producing increasingly creative cutting techniques and a-symmetric shapes. Over the next few years, you can easily see an exciting evolution of surprisingly flattering & feminine styles despite the lack of the waist.

How to wear 1920s Fashion Today

Fashion from the 1920s does feel very different and we are often asked 'How can I wear 1920s style today?' by many customers. Our blog post Can You Wear 1920s Fashion Today? has the longer answer.

While many people associate the 1920s with beaded flapper dresses and fancy-dress parties, everyday fashion in the decade was often surprisingly elegant and wearable. Softly draped dresses, Art Deco-inspired prints, relaxed tailoring, beautiful knitwear and understated embellishment all formed part of a modern woman's wardrobe during the 1920s.

Today, many of these elements can be incorporated into contemporary dressing with ease. The key is to focus on the clean lines, decorative details and effortless sophistication of the era rather than attempting a theatrical recreation. Whether it's an Art Deco-inspired dress, a beautifully detailed blouse or a piece influenced by the glamour of the Jazz Age, 1920s style can feel just as elegant and relevant today as it did a century ago.

Below are a few themes to help you along:-

Flapper

Night-life became the focus and gave birth to the most glamourous evening fashion. The flapper was interested in dancing and being a free spirit and so her dress reflected that. Luxury and exuberance was the norm and was expressed through the use of sumptuous fabrics such as silk, velvet and satin. With the shape emphasis still placed on the hip - dresses were gathered on the hip or the back, the shoulders and evolved to reflect the frenzy of the jazz age.

A 1920s dress of this style is more flattering than you might think - and you don't need a bob haircut to make it work. Pick up a pair of Mary-jane shoes and partner with a head sash and you will look like you came straight from 'The age of chic'!

Two women in vintage dresses, one black and white, the other color, standing in decorative settings.

Frothy Fabrics & Art Deco Prints

As styles simplified due to the demands of modern life - formal ornamentation and corsetry disappeared in favour of layers, art deco inspired prints and draping, lighter fabrics such as chiffon.

The simple shapes of the 1920s styles screamed for prints and the Art Deco movement gladly provided.

Side-by-side comparison of a vintage illustration and a model wearing a floral dress.

The Cloche

The cloche hat really did signal 'The Age of Chic'

With the demise of the fussy hats and hair of the previous decades, the bob haircut demanded a different hat. As women would still never have left the house without one for a few decades yet....The close fitting helmet like hat was the perfect pairing for the bob and the most iconic symbol of the 1920s.

Side-by-side comparison of a woman in vintage attire with a modern-day recreation.

1920s Fashion Year by Year: Drop Waists, Hemlines & Asymmetry

Whilst the 1920s is known for the rectangular silhouette with a drop waist, there was a lot of change throughout the decade, and styles from the beginning are VERY different to the end.

  • 1920 to 1923: the waist starts near its natural position and drifts down to the hip, while hemlines descend to the ankle.
  • 1925 fashion: the look is totally flat and rectangular, with hems at mid-calf. The Paris Exposition of Decorative Arts launches Art Deco.
  • 1926 to 1928: bobbed hair and the cloche are everywhere, and hems rise to the knee, their highest of the decade.
  • 1929 fashion: the Wall Street Crash ends the boom, the waist creeps back in via small details like rows of pin tucks and seams, and hems begin to fall, pointing the way to the 1930s.

Throughout, designers sought to make their styles more complex to discourage copying, adding godets, flounce panels and complex cutting.

Comparison of vintage fashion illustration with modern model wearing a similar dress.

1920s Outfit Ideas: Your Capsule Wardrobe

Whether you are after a 1920s outfit for a speakeasy party or want to try the era day to day, getting the 20s look doesn't have to be difficult. A few key garments will go a long way, together with thinking differently about shape and adornment. Here are a few staple ideas to get you started:

  • A cloche hat
  • Mary Jane shoes, easy to find and great with coloured opaque tights
  • A simple drop waist dress, which can then be adorned and styled according to where you are wearing it: beaded or fringed for a party, softly draped for day
  • Art Deco jewellery and long beads
  • A sumptuous long line coat in velvet or faux fur

For the everyday version, read Can You Wear 1920s Fashion Today?

Click here to browse our 1920s fashion selection

Further Reading:-

  • 1920s Fashion - The Definitive Sourcebook
  • Everyday Fashions of the 20s - Sears Catalogue
  • Art Deco Fashion - Suzanne Lussier

Style icons from the 1920s:-

  • Coco Chanel
  • Clara Bow
  • Louise Brooks
  • Josephine Baker
  • Colleen Moore

How to Dress 1920s: Our Top Styling Tips

Tip 1 – the foundation
As with all styles, getting the right foundation garments (underwear) is essential. However, for the 20s, we don't need to emphasise the waist. No waspies or waist defining corsets - just smooth lines. Strapping down bosoms isn't necessary either - despite the popular theories....soft and simple underwear with no modern padding is required here.

Tip 2 - accessories
The 1920s era is all about accessories - in the form of a Cloche hat, gloves long and short, jewellery in abundance, a faux fur or two (or a real vintage one).

Tip 3 - hair and hats
1920s hair was mostly bobbed and in some case cropped very close. This is perhaps more tricky  with modern hair styles but can be easily adapted via a few clever techniques. We will be doing a 20s video soon.

About The House of Foxy

House of Foxy specialises in vintage-inspired womenswear, recreating the elegance of the 1920s, 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, 1960s and 1970s for modern wardrobes. Drawing inspiration from original garments and historical fashion references, our collections are designed to capture the spirit of vintage style while offering contemporary fit, comfort and wearability. Designed with love and made to be treasured in our own factory here in Yorkshire, England.

1920s Fashion from Our Blog

1920s Fashion: Frequently Asked Questions

Quick answers to common questions about 1920s fashion history and style.
What is 1920s fashion? Plus

1920s fashion describes the clothing worn during the Jazz Age (1920-1929), characterised by a straight, low-waisted silhouette, dropped hemlines and a dramatic move away from the corseted Edwardian styles that came before. Key pieces included flapper dresses, cloche hats and Art Deco-inspired prints, reflecting women's new social and physical freedoms after the First World War.

What did women wear in the 1920s? Plus

Women in the 1920s typically wore drop-waist dresses with hemlines that rose from ankle-length to knee-length by 1928, paired with a close-fitting cloche hat, T-bar or Mary Jane shoes, and long strands of beads. Underneath, soft, unstructured underwear replaced the corset, giving the era's clothing its flat, boyish silhouette.

What is a flapper dress? Plus

A flapper dress is a loose-fitting, low-waisted 1920s dress designed for dancing and nightlife, typically made from luxurious fabrics like silk, velvet or satin and decorated with fringing, beading or sequins. The style favoured movement over structure, with embellishment concentrated at the hip or hemline rather than a defined waist. Browse our 1920s dresses.

What fabrics and prints were popular in the 1920s? Plus

1920s fashion favoured lighter fabrics such as chiffon, silk and satin, replacing the heavier textiles of previous decades. Art Deco-inspired geometric and abstract prints were especially popular, alongside intricate beading, embroidery and asymmetric cutting techniques that added interest to the era's simple, rectangular silhouettes.

How can you wear 1920s fashion today? Plus

To wear 1920s style today, focus on clean lines, decorative detail and a relaxed, dropped waist rather than a full flapper costume. A drop-waist dress, T-bar shoes and Art Deco-inspired jewellery translate easily into modern dressing: pair with a cloche-style hat or soft waves for special occasions, or keep it simple for everyday wear.

Who were the style icons of the 1920s? Plus

Style icons of the 1920s included Coco Chanel, silent film stars Clara Bow and Louise Brooks, and dancer Josephine Baker - all associated with the era's bobbed hair, dropped waistlines and newly liberated approach to women's fashion.

What can I wear to a 1920s party? Plus

For a 1920s party, a flapper dress is the classic choice: look for fringing, beading or sequins on a loose, low-waisted cut that moves when you dance. Finish with a cloche hat or a beaded headband, T-bar heels and a long strand of pearls or beads. For a more relaxed take, a drop-waist day dress with Art Deco-inspired jewellery still nods to the era without going full costume. Start with our 1920s dresses and 1920s accessories.